Radon fans run 24/7 for years — and when one finally stops, your mitigation system stops protecting your home with it. This guide helps you identify your failed fan, cross-reference it to the right modern replacement, and get the parts to swap it in an afternoon. The fan specifications and replacement cross-reference below come from RadonAway's official 2023/2024 Radon Professional's Fan Guide.
How to tell your radon fan has failed
Three quick checks:
- Look at your U-tube manometer. The liquid in the tube should rest at two different heights while the fan runs. If both columns are level, the fan is not pulling suction — it has failed, lost power, or the pipe is blocked. (No manometer on your system? Add a U-tube manometer during the replacement — Canada's radon mitigation standard, CAN/CGSB-149.12, calls for a visible system performance indicator on active systems.)
- Listen. A healthy radon fan produces a faint, steady hum. Silence — or grinding, rattling, and surging — means the motor or bearings are on the way out.
- Check power first. Before buying anything, confirm the breaker, switch, and cord connection. A tripped GFCI is cheaper than a new fan.
Want failure alerts without checking the pipe? The RadonAway RSA1 system alarm alerts you automatically — visually and audibly — when the system loses vacuum.
Radon fan replacement cross-reference chart
Fantech, AMG/FESTA, Kanalflakt, FanAmerica, and Rosenberg radon fans — including many discontinued models — map directly to current RadonAway fans. Find your old fan below. The right-hand column is RadonAway's official replacement recommendation; models in bold links are in stock at Radon Depot.
Fantech radon fan replacements
| Your old Fantech fan | RadonAway replacement |
|---|---|
| Rn4 | GX4, GX5A, GP501c, or EC6 |
| R100, F100, FR100, HP2133, Rn1 | RP140 or LV175 |
| R150, F150, FR150, Rn3 | XR261 or RP260 — 6″-duct class; see RP265 below |
| R160, F160, FR160, Rn2X | RP260 or RP265 |
| R175, F175, FR175 | RP265 |
| HP190, HP2190, Rn2, Rn2EC | RP145 or LV175 |
| HP190SL, Rn2SL | SF180 (low-profile — special order, contact us) |
| HP220 | RP265 |
AMG / FESTA radon fan replacements
| Your old AMG/FESTA fan | RadonAway replacement |
|---|---|
| Maverick Low Voltage | RP145, XP151, XP201, or LV175 |
| Hawk Low Voltage | RP260 or XR261 — 6″-duct class; see RP265 |
| Prowler Low Voltage | GX3 or GP301c (the stocked GX4 is the same 3″-duct GX series, one performance class up — confirm fit with us) |
| Legend Low Voltage | RP265 |
| Eagle | GX3, GX4, or GP301c |
| Eagle Extreme | GX4, GX5A, or EC6 |
| Legend Extreme | EC6 |
| Goliath | RP260, GX4, GX5A, or EC6 |
| Force | RP260, GX4, GX5A, or EC6 |
Kanalflakt / FanAmerica radon fan replacements
| Your old Kanalflakt/FanAmerica fan | RadonAway replacement |
|---|---|
| T1 Turbo 5 (fiberglass) | XP201*, XP151*, or LV175 (4″-duct class; the stocked RP145 covers the same duty — confirm fit with us) |
| T2 Turbo 6 (fiberglass) | XR261 or RP260 — 6″-duct class; see RP265 |
| K4 (metal) | RP140* or LV175 |
| K4XL (metal) | XP201*, XP151*, or LV175 (see RP145 note above) |
| K6 (metal) | XR261 or RP260 — 6″-duct class; see RP265 |
Rosenberg radon fan replacements
| Your old Rosenberg fan | RadonAway replacement |
|---|---|
| R100 | RP140* or LV175 |
| R150 | XR261 or RP260 — 6″-duct class; see RP265 |
* Slightly different duct diameter — requires different flexible couplings (RadonAway's note). The correct choice can depend on your site's airflow vs. static pressure needs; when in doubt, send us your manometer reading and we'll confirm the match.
Models without links (RP260, XR261, XP151, XP201, LV175, GX3, GP301c, GP501c, SF180) are RadonAway SKUs we don't regularly stock in Canada. Where the recommended fan is a 6″-duct model, the stocked RP265 is the same 6″-duct series — RadonAway itself lists it as the alternative in several rows above. For anything else, contact us; we can usually special-order.
RadonAway radon fan specifications compared
All figures from RadonAway's 2023/2024 Fan Selection Guide. "Max operating pressure" is the recommended limit in inches of water column ("WC) — your U-tube manometer shows your system's current operating pressure, which tells you the class of fan you need.
| Fan | P/N | Duct | Watts | Rec. max pressure | CFM @ 0″ | CFM @ 1.0″ | CFM @ 2.0″ | Weight |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| RP140 (Energy Star) | 28460 | 4″ | 17–21 W | 0.70″ WC | 138 | — | — | 4.5 lb |
| RP145 | 28461 | 4″ | 34–66 W | 1.7″ WC | 169 | 81 | 4 | 5.5 lb |
| RP265 | 28463 | 6″ | 96–136 W | 2.3″ WC | 375 | 204 | 70 | 6.5 lb |
| GX4† | 28585 | 3″ | 74–158 W | 4.8″ WC | — | — | — | 8.1 lb |
| GX5A | 28536 | 4″ | 80–180 W | 5.0″ WC | 178 | 153 | 123 | 8.9 lb |
| EC6 (variable speed) | 28625 | 6″ | 140–175 W | 4.25″ WC | 514 | 381 | 271 | 6.5 lb |
† The GX4 is a high-suction fan: the guide rates its airflow starting at 2.5″ WC (84 CFM), with 41 CFM at 4.5″ — it isn't rated at the low pressures shown for the other columns.
Rule of thumb from the manufacturer: airflow drops about 4% for every 1,000 ft of altitude, and reducing the duct size costs roughly 20% of airflow — so if your home sits high or your pipe necks down, size up.
Browse all models in our radon fan collection, or read how to choose a radon fan if you're starting from scratch.
What you need for the swap
A like-for-like fan replacement is one of the simplest jobs in radon mitigation. You'll need:
- The replacement fan (from the chart above)
- Two flexible rubber couplings sized fan-duct × pipe — this is how the fan mounts to the pipe. For 4″ pipe: 4″×4″ couplings for 4″-duct fans, 4″×3″ for the GX4's 3″ duct, 6″×4″ for 6″-duct fans like the RP265 and EC6
- A power cord kit if your old cord isn't reusable — RadonAway RP- and GX-series fans ship without a cord (8′ cord with bushing); the low-voltage LV175 is the exception and includes its own power pack and cord
- A fresh manometer if the old one is faded or missing (Easy Read U-tube)
Or skip the parts list: our kit builder auto-sizes the couplings to whichever fan you pick and adds everything to cart in one click.
How to replace a radon fan
A like-for-like radon mitigation fan swap follows the same five steps on almost every system:
- Cut power to the fan — unplug it or switch off the breaker.
- Loosen the two flexible couplings above and below the fan (screwdriver or nut driver on the clamp bands) and lift the old fan out.
- Set the new fan in place with the airflow arrow pointing up (exhaust direction), and clamp the couplings onto the new fan's duct collars.
- Restore power and listen for the fan spinning up.
- Verify on the manometer — the fluid columns should split apart to roughly the reading your system showed before the old fan failed. Flat columns mean no suction: re-check power and coupling seals.
If anything about the wiring, pipe condition, or radon levels afterward doesn't look right, bring in a certified mitigator — a failed fan is sometimes the symptom of a larger system issue.
Frequently asked questions
Can I replace a Fantech radon fan with a RadonAway fan?
Yes. RadonAway publishes official cross-reference recommendations for Fantech, AMG/FESTA, Kanalflakt, FanAmerica, and Rosenberg fans — that's the chart on this page. If the new fan's duct diameter differs from your old one, you just need different flexible couplings; the pipe itself doesn't change.
How long do radon fans last?
RadonAway Pro Series fans carry a 5-year manufacturer warranty. Because a radon mitigation fan runs continuously, plan on eventual replacement as normal maintenance for any system — and treat a flat manometer or a noisy motor as the signal it's time.
Do I need an electrician to replace a radon fan?
If your existing fan plugs into an outlet, a like-for-like swap generally reuses the same connection — RadonAway RP- and GX-series fans accept a plug-in cord kit. If your system is hardwired, or you're unsure the existing wiring is compliant, have an electrician or a certified radon mitigator make the connection.
My old fan model isn't in the chart. What do I do?
Match on two numbers: the duct diameter (measure the fan's inlet opening) and your system's operating pressure (read it off the U-tube manometer before the old fan dies, if possible). Then pick the fan in the spec table whose duct matches and whose recommended max pressure comfortably covers your reading — or send us a photo of the old fan label and we'll match it for you.
Should I upgrade instead of replacing like-for-like?
If your radon levels were well controlled, like-for-like is the safe default. If your post-mitigation radon was marginal, the fan struggled (manometer near the fan's max pressure), or you've finished more basement space, replacement is the natural moment to step up a class — see how radon mitigation works or ask a local pro.
